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JSA  Precicion Parking Sensor Cutter

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Thank you for purchasing the JSA precision PDC cutter. This precision tool will, with little familiarisation and practice, allow you to cut parking sensor holes in paint protection film, after the film is fitted to the vehicle, in sizes from 18mm to 32mm diameter. It employs a blade guide system that, if set up correctly, allows the film to be cut in a perfect circle, without fear of cutting though and into the underlying paint. 

Blade Depth Adjuster
Diameter Adjustment Barrel
Main Body Grip
Suction Foot 
Main Spindle Drag Adjustment (Brake)
Blade Guide Tip and Blade
Main Grip Handle


A very fine blade depth adjustment system which allows the blade depth to be set in 20 micron steps with tactical feedback ensures that the cutting depth can be set correctly and with confidence for cutting a wide range of PDC sensors. 



The blade is supported on two miniature precision ball bearings allowing it to self align to the direction of cut. (See section #)



The tool positively attaches to the vehicle, by way of a sucker foot. This prevents any sliding or movement in relation to the panel when cutting. This fixing is however flexible enough to allow the tool to be held at an angle to the sensor, where the sensors are positioned at an angle to the surrounding panel. This is to allow the cutting head of the tool to be kept, as much as possible, perpendicular to the panel when cutting.



Extremely close tolerances and finely machined components throughout ensure minimal 'slop', meaning circles are perfectly round, and more importantly, close and join exactly at the end of your cut.



A brake, or drag adjustment is incorporated into the design to afford more control to the user. This can be adjusted to suit the user and situation. (See section #)



The blade guard is made from a self lubricating and durable material to allow it to slide on the PPF. It is this that stays in contact with the surface during the cut and stops the blade penetrating deeper than is set.¹



The blade is removable for cleaning and replacement, as is the sucker foot (See section #)




Don't drop, the tool is built robustly and is designed to give many years of service but incorporates delicate components and assemblies that could be damaged or knocked out of true by a heavy shock, such as a drop into a hard floor


Always test cut when something is changed

Become familiar with the tool before using on a car

Do not disassemble 


Do not unscrew and remove the blade depth adjustment knob


Keep dry. The blade adjustment/rotation mechanism and diameter adjustment relies very heavily on it's lack of internal friction. Do not use or leave in a wet environment or one with corrosive chemicals or solvents. Corrosion of internal components and/ or the washing away of internal lubrication will destroy the tool. If allowed to get wet, place in a warm dry environment for several hours or overnight.


Workflow to prepare for cutting

Set up the brake (see figure #)

The brake is a feature that allows both the rotation and the lateral movement of the central shaft to be braked. This is very useful for stopping the tool from skipping or dropping away from the panel during the cut and in particular, when the hand position in changed during the cut. The best cut is made in one continuous circle. If the blade comes away from the film during the cut it can cause a slight disjoint that can make peeling the sensor more difficult. Brake amount is personal preference but a good starting point is tight enough so that when the central axle is held parallel to the ground the tool doesn't rotate and drop under it's own weight, but will do so when lightly pushed.


Measure sensor (see figure #)


Set diameter on tool (see figure #)


Check/set blade cut direction (see section #)


Adjust cut depth to suit film stock and situation (see section #)


Perform test cut on scrap film (always perform your cut test on a flat, hard surface, either on or off the backer (put this is a different section)


Align the sucker foot to the sensor and push firmly in place


Perform a quadrant check around the sensor to check concentricity to the sensor and diameter setting is satisfactory (see section #)




Grip the top handle with your thumb in the end depression and first two fingers either side, think of a cigarette grip. Adjust the angle so the axle of the tool is as close to perpendicular to the panel at possible. 


Hold it there! 


Now grip the tool around the upper grip section of the main body with two or three fingers.


Make a mental note of roughly where your start your cut. Slowly and carefully rotate the tool in your desired (but preset! See section #) direction. The blades are extremely sharp and very very little force is needed to cut the correct depth (set on the bench earlier) to allow easy peeling. The depth of cut is in no way related to how hard you push. Pushing too hard will make the blade guard to dig into the film and cause it to bunch up and ruin your cut. ² 


As mentioned above, the best cut is one continuous one................... More


Once you have completed a full turn and are back to your start point continue past at least a quarter turn to ensure both that the cut is closed but also that this part of the cut is of the correct depth to start the peel. In some cases, such a panels where the sensor is located on a curve, there can be some benefit to continuing your cut for a full second rotation.


Remember, you will not cut any deeper by going for a second rotation but it will help mitigate differences in pressure around the circle caused by negotiating the curvature of the panel ensuring a clean peel.


Peeling- the tool is not cutting all the way though the film and the adhesive... The last part of the film depth must be 'torn'. The best tool for starting this incision is the trusty fingernail. Position your fingernail as close as possible to the cut you've just made and with reasonable pressure into the panel, pull the cut open. Only a very small opening is needed to allow the rest of the sensor to be peeled out. Now pull the opened flap of the cut disk back on itself at on oblique angle to the panel and peel round the circle in one direction at a time. Don't try to fold the cut disk back on itself and pull both sides of the cut at the same time, this risks pulling the outside of the cut away from the panel.


Lastly, carefully push down any part of the edge of the cut hole that may have been pulled up by peeling the cut disk out and... You're done!


1. In areas where there has been significant stretch of the film during fitting there are two points that are vitality important to take into account before cutting. The first is to ensure the film is totally dry and fully adhered across the sensor to be cut. If the cut is made too early, when the film is still wet, there's a high risk that when the sensor is cut and peeled, the hole will distort and local adhesive damage (adhesive shift) will occur. 


The second point is that when the film is stretched, it becomes thinner. This, of course, is a limitation of the process of setting the blade depth on the bench. However, since the blade depth adjustment can be made in such fine increments there are actually several 'clicks' of adjustment between a very shallow cut and cutting all the way though the film. Taking this characteristic of the film into account it is recommended to err on the side of caution and set the depth on the bench a few clicks shallow. 


2.It is highly recommended that you make many practice cuts on the bench then further practice cuts on a car before committing to cutting your first sensor on an installed bumper. A great way to practice on a car is to stick a reasonable sized offcut of PPF over a PDC sensor, for protection and peace of mind. Then on top, dry fit a smaller piece by placing over and smoothing with a finger around the sensor. This piece of film can now be test cut, pulled off easily, restuck, and cut again as many times at is needed to get a feel for the cutting process.

main spindle friction (brake)

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